China: Hutongs

 

Tuesday, April 2 6:30pm

This morning I checked out of my hostel and began the adventure to Beijing. I jumped on Line 2 and headed to the Hongqiao Railway Station. My hostel booked my ticket on the high-speed bullet train linking Shanghai to Beijing for me the other day, so "all" that I needed to do was go to the ticket booth to claim my ticket. I arrive at the station and head in the direction of the massive lines behind the ticket booth. In my head I'm thinking that I'm glad that I allowed myself an extra half hour this morning because as it was, I was slightly concerned if I would have my ticket in time. At arrival, there were only two lines open. Then third and fourth lines opened and you would have thought they were giving away money if you saw how fast the locals moved lines. This also was a point of contention between an older gentleman, a young, tall guy in a nice suit, and what appeared to be more of a rural, smaller guy. When I looked over at the commotion, the taller guy was tugging at the jacket of the rural guy and the older guy was yelling at the taller guy. From the gestures and tone, it seemed the smaller guy jumped line and the older guy was defending him. This went on for five minutes and then the taller, nicer dressed guy ended up in front of the other two guys. Like I said earlier, Chinese people don't do we'll with queues. 

Aboard the train, I was excited to experience this time-saving luxury. With this train traveling at 300kph/200mph, it takes only 4.5 hours. Otherwise, it would take 15-20 or more,  by car!! On the ride, I could see the transitioning landscape from city to country and the change in housing from wood frames to brick. Generally, life between the two cities seems very poor and many homes seemed like shanties in the country. Along the way, amongst the crops of rice, I noticed grave sites.grave sites here were above ground mounds, with a pole sticking out of the tops of some. Since Friday is Tomb Cleaning Day, a  holiday to celebrate ancestors, I wondered if that the was the reason for the cellophane  looking  decorations?

The train arrived at Beijing South Railway Station and and departed along with the other 1500+ people. Taking mental notes from Shanghai I purchased my metro card. And entered the subway. After one line change to, you've got it, Line 2, I rode a few stops and got of at my exit. Upon entering the street, the pollution literally hit me in the face.  My mouth became dry and nose started to burn. Not wanting to unpack my mask yet, I decided I'd get to my hotel first. With only a minor detour, while I oriented myself, google maps directed me perfectly to my tiny hotel. I had to wind down a few small 'hutongs,' Chinese for alleys. I was reading that the historic hutongs are slowly disappearing in the cities, giving way to malls and skyscrapers. For now it appears, this hutong area is safe. Cars aren't able drive on them, so that leaves pedestrians, scooters, bicycles, and rickshaws. 

As I was saying, this hotel is small. Whereas the hostel I stayed in Shanghai was built within the last few years, Old Beijing Square Hotel is just that. Old. It was is located in a siheyuan, which is a traditional dwelling inside a courtyard. It was built during the Qing Dynasty over 300 years ago so I'm guessing there's been some remodeling done. The rooms all face the courtyard, which is a little weird to have your window face in, rather than out. The hotel is very ornate.

After relaxing a while from the days journey, I decided to walk the hutongs to find dinner. I ate braised beef with potatoes and found that using chopsticks, finally clicked for me. What other choice did I have? 

Drum and Bell Towers were next on the agenda. These were both just a few blocks away. On the walk, I got to see more alley ways and locals going about their day. In a courtyard near the towers, I found some men gathered around playing kinja, the Chinese version of hacky-sack. Around corner is where I located the towers adjacent to other, separated by a small park.

The Bell and Drum Towers were initially built for musical reasons, then during the Qing Dynasty, they turned into timepieces. They functioned as such until 1924 when western-style clocks became the official time keeper.

I'm turning in early tonight. I'm tired and just want to curl up with an American movie on my iPad.  :-)