Colombia: Stuck Between A Rock and A Hard Place

“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.” - Helen Keller

 

 

You know that moment in a movie when the main characters are riding in a taxi after midnight in a foreign country. Then, all of a sudden, the driver takes an obscure route, pulls over on the side of the street, and gets out of the car to walk to a dark building. He claims he has to "fill out paperwork." As the movie watcher, you just know that something bad is about to happen. Well, except for the "something bad is about to happen," that scenario happened to us Friday night.

A few of us decided to head to Salenta, Colombia for the weekend. Our bus left Medellín at 4:30pm and was set to arrive at 9:30pm. Due to lots of traffic and winding mountain roads, we didn't get to the final station until midnight. Exhausted, we grabbed a taxi after confirming that he knew where we were going- 45 min away. We got in and started on our way and shortly there after, we were confronted with the bad scene in a movie. As the driving is trying to explain he needs paperwork for a possible police check, the three of us are making eyes at each other, wondering what the hell was really going on. We were stuck- we were in a small town with no life around except the two homeless guys wandering by. We were at the mercy of our driver. After about 10 minutes, the driver had his "paperwork", Pascal signed it, and we were again on our way safely. Those were probably the longest 10 minutes of my life. 

Even after the long journey in, we woke up early to hike the Los Nevados National Park. This hike was legit and had all things I love- plush greenery, wild animals, water falls, rickety bridges, passes over rocks and through creeks. It also had the one thing I hate on hikes- mountains. Not hills, mountains! The 7.5 miles were filled with exquisite landscapes. We started in a lush pasture, entered into a cloud forest, walk up a mountain or two, and then ended with their famous valley of tall palm trees. It was all so breathtaking and unlike any other hike I've done.

 

 

 

  During the 45 minute straight up mountain section, I could feel my heart pounding in every part of my body.

 

Me, Pascal and Olivia (both from Switzerland)

 

 

 

 

 

 

First class coffee. 70% of the first class beans are exported to be roasted in other countries. People here typically drink 2nd class coffee, which means the beans have more imperfections.

 

 

Winning at Tejo. Objective is to throw the Tejo (rock ish thing) to the other side. You win one point if you're closest to center. If your Tejo hits the target, an explosion of gun powder occurs and you get 3 points.
 

Trout lunch after game of Tejo

 

Colombia: Paramilitary and Guerrillas

“Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” - Mary Ritter Beard

 

In recent past, Comuna 13 was plagued with incredible violence, death and upheaval. Lots of fighting took place between various armed groups. Controlling this area meant control of the highway leading to the coast and the import/export of illegal goods. Tired of death and turmoil, the citizens and local hip hop artists took a stand for peace. Major projects have been promoted in this area, such as a large escalator system to help in the mobility of residents and the addition of beautiful graffiti. One local hip hop group, using proceeds from tours like I took today, help youth in the area see there are other options for them to choose, rather than violence. It was clear during the tour how important it is to the citizens, that the outside know that they are desperately trying to rehabilitate their image since the days of Pablo Escobar. 

Yesterday, after visiting the Modern Art Museum, I attended a Language Exchange at a local restaurant. Samson attended this when he was in Medellín and recommended I go so that I could meet other people. At the event, I sat with two other Americans, 3 locals, and a guy from Finland. I tried speaking a little Spanish  when I could, but mostly ended up helping the locals practice their English through conversation. I would have never taken part in something like this in the US, but I'm glad that Samson kept insisting I go. Since I did have a positive experience, I'm going to try another one tonight. 

Having been in Medellín for 6 days, the biggest things I notice, in compared to Quito, Ecuador, are that the local people are much more beautiful and diverse, and the city is full of color. The color is coming from tasteful street art and painted buildings, combined with green spaces and trees. The weather is also more amicable since it's sunny and warm. That's why they call Medellín the City of Eternal Spring.

Yummy breakfast (eggs, plantain, cheese, arepa)

 

City Center

 

Botero Plaza

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comuna 13 - Previously very dangerous and controversial area.

 

 

 

 

Bicho, local graffiti artist and some of his work

 

 

 

 

Colombia: Finding My Way

"Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore.” – Andre Gide

Today was the first day that I felt like myself; I gained a little courage. I ventured out to find the Hop-On, Hop-Off bus. What better way to see a good amount of the city? I got on at Poblado Park with a couple from Sweden, who thankfully spoke English. I asked if I they'd mind if I toured around them for a bit and they obliged. From Poblado Park, we headed to city center where me made our first stop at Botero Plaza. This plaza is known for the large, plump, bronze sculptures by Colombian artist, Fernando Botero. Both myself and the couple were cautioned not to leave the plaza on our own and I rightfully remembered my chaotic experience the first day. So, as a group, we quickly visited the plaza, being extremely mindful of our things. I got some great shots and we entered back on the bus without any problems. 

The other two main stops we made were at the Botanical Garden and the Mirador Cerro Nutibara, which translates to hilltop view. The botanical garden was a nice change of pace to the busy city. Lots of greenery, but I was hoping for more flowers. During the festival of flowers, there will be orchids and birds. While in the gardens, we came upon a Mayan festival where they were performing various dances. I think that's why I like exploring because you never know when you are going to come upon these unordinary experiences. Just like yesterday, Jorge and I were walking in the park near the Museum of Art and walked upon a guy doing amazing gymnastic stunts on the high bar, accompanied by awesome music. That kind of life really means a lot to me; seeing local people  in their element. 

The views of the city were pretty cool. The lookout gave a panoramic view of Medellín. I'm going to the area again tonight for the night views. 

The bus brought me back to Poblado Park where I decided to walk home. It's about 1 mile or so, up hill. I thought when I left Quito that I was done with hills! The area I walked through was delightful and comfortable and much more my speed. There were plentiful options for food, drinks, and cafes. I stopped in at place and grabbed a "small" hotdog, french fries, and soda, for $3. Small was a joke. It was almost a foot long, covered in delicious toppings! I've yet to finish a meal since I've been here. 

Yesterday, I visited a local market that was full of choices for anything you needed, especially fruits, vegetables, meats and fish. My family introduced me to many exotic fruits, so I enjoyed those as we browsed in search of fruits I didn't know; and there were tons! 

 

 

View from home

 

Market

Juice at market

 

 

Street art near Art Museum

Michelada - mango, beer, salt and lime      

 

 

Colombia: Really? All That Happened?

“Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.” – Neale Donald Walsch

Wow. The last 48 hours have been a blur and cultural explosion. Friday night, Samson and I went down to the Mariscal Sucre area of Quito to have a few drinks before I left time. Even though the night was early, the area was rocking for my standards. It was fun to see the area take on a different persona at night, but it's just not my scene. I like chill, hole in the wall places. 

My alarm clock came way too early Saturday to catch my flight. I made it and my connection without any problems. However, my biggest personal challenge came when I determined that I would take the bus into Medellín. Both Jorge (Iris' nephew) and Samson said it was easy. As I was standing in line at immigration I started to panic about what was to come. I didn't mind that the immigration line was long because it was keeping me in my comfort zone. The time came and the exit doors opened and just like that I was thrust into Colombia. And just as Jorge and Samson said, the bus was that easy.

I made it to Jorge's house and was fondly greeted by his family. I had a glass of water, jumped on the internet to let my family know I made it and then we were off to do a whirlwind tour of the center of town. My mind was blown and I was quickly back in my internal panic mode. I was thankful that I was with Jorge or I probably would have gone back home. I was so overwhelmed with the number of people milling around and those trying to sell you something. I think in the two hours, I saw most every fruit, food and product that could possibly be sold. My favorite part was when we came up to a Brazilian martial arts group performing their art in a plaza. I couldn't stop smiling at each of their interpretations. I loved the community feeling. 

We called it a day and headed back to Jorge's grandma's house, which is where I'm staying. Mariella is such a sweet lady, just as her daughter Iris is. She said her house was my home for as long as I needed and quickly got me food and juice. After I got settled in, I did as I normally did- ask for the wifi password. Bam! She didn't have internet! My panic set in again. Jorge was sweet to take me back to his house so I could let my family know that I'd be off the grid until I figured out a SIM card. 

Today, Jorge, his mom, Olivia (exchange student) and I traveled a few hours away to Guatapé. We climbed up the Guatapé Rock, which was over 700 steps to the peak. We were wiped, but the views were worth it. This little town was fantastic. It was on a set of finger lakes and the buildings were bright and colorful, with architectural uniqueness. After walking around for a while, we went on a boat cruise of on one of the lakes. Across the lake, you could easily see the cruise boat that sank a few weeks ago, tragically killing 7 people.

As we headed back to Medellín, we stopped in another little town named San Antonio. Their main square was full of street vendors selling all kinds of delicious smelling food. We passed through, looking for Postres San Antonio. This place is known for their cheesecakes, having over 30 flavors. I chose the Neapolitan with mora sauce (blackberry) and it was fantastic!  

All in all, these 48 hours have had such highs and lows for me emotionally. I miss my family and friends and I miss knowing my way around. I'll know I'll figure it out and get through it. It's just going to take time.

 

 

Arepas

 

 

Guatapé Rock... over 700 steps to very top

Bandeja Paisa. No, I did not finish it.

Jorge and his mom dancing

Postres San Antonio (cheesecakes)

 

 

 

 

 

Ecuador Travel Video

 

Ecuador: ¡Adiós, Quito!

"A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions."- Oliver Wendell Holmes

It's bittersweet to think that today is my last day in Ecuador. I fly out early tomorrow morning to Medellín, Colombia. When I first got here, I thought there was no way I could give up my life in North Carolina. The first few days were long, hard, and mentally exhausting as I tried to reach navigation perfection as soon as I could. The conveniences I've grown accustomed to were no where to be found. However, after spending almost 2.5 weeks here, I've found people I'd like to stay friends with, parks to explore, and quaint coffee shops to lounge in. I didn't even touch the more extreme areas surrounding Quito that offer tremendous hikes and waterfall repelling; I'll save that for another day. I guess what I'm saying is that I could make a life of it here, assuming I could bring a few people along to make it all that much better. Those hills, though...

My next stop is Medellín; The City of Eternal Spring. Of course, my anxiety level is increasing as the day goes on because I'll be entering new lands to explore and understand. Here in Quito, I know where the secret restrooms are that are free, clean, and have toilet paper. I know where I can pick up wifi to satisfy my yearning to stay connected with the rest of the world and friends at home. I'll have to do that search all over again in Medellín. Everyone that I've passed on this trip, that have visited Medellín, have had almost all positive things to say about the city. I'm nervously excited to push myself again into unknown territory and open myself up to meet more new people. 

Until next time...